Saturday, December 27, 2008

Shambhala



The Salmo River Ranch is nestled deep in the heart of the Kootenay Mountains just north of the 49th parallel. Visitors and locals alike are amazed at the beauty of these sharp young mountains overrun by coniferous trees. They led the Canadian province of British Columbia to advertise itself, somewhat audaciously, as “The Best Place on Earth.”
The Ranch is unrivalled in the devotion it commands and joy it inspires. For the past eleven years it’s been home to the annual Shambhala Music Festival. Yet it feels sacrilegious to label it as simply another electronic music festival. Shambhala is so much more than that. Unrivalled and unsurpassed anywhere in the world, it is a singularity, a confluence of factors combining to catalyse an explosion of sheer ecstasy.
Ten thousand people flock to the Ranch each year and on the first day tents are erected throughout the jumble of fields, forests and a river. Various stages dot the landscape, each offering a unique experience. The Fractal Forest, with its turntables in the middle, is surrounded by towering trees. Lasers refract through the mist, piercing the raindrops and bouncing off branches, drawing astonished gawps from the throng of revellers. Trees are plastered with glowing paintings, giant dreamcatchers and in one corner is a massive silver pyramid. In every direction paths lead to other stages. The trails cut through the forest, lit by glowing orbs, twinkling fairy lights and sometimes only the glowsticks of the ravers who bear them. Vast neon paintings adorn the great trunks; intricate models of miniature houses populate the treetops, almost too high to see them. The next stage is The Village, an outer courtyard lays through tall wooden gates. Through a further set of doors the huge open dance-floor appears, surrounded by rising and falling platforms which are all connected, providing vantage points from every possible angle, though thousands of people are too busy dancing to watch. Countless paths lead out of The Village, going to tents, other stages and bizarre clearings full of odd people and abstract art you’d never find again at a second attempt. Walking further across bridges and through twisting glowing tunnels you eventually come to where the forest opens out to The Living Room, a beach stage burrowed twixt river and forest. Here is chilled out ambient music, for those relaxing, resting or simply sitting back and trying to take it all in. There are other stages, the Rock Pit, a dirty dance floor dug deep down into the ground, as well as The Pagoda and Labyrinth. Yet none contain the ethereal majesty or raucous energy of Fractal or The Village.
The music at Shambhala is the bassiest, most aggressive and most exciting line up of any festival anywhere. The sound system is a 90kW fire-breathing monster. The DJs play a twenty-four hour pounding mix of the very best dubstep, funky yet deliciously filthy electro, breathless drum and bass as well as that downbeat ambience some people crave. The line up this year included Skream (see interview above), Bassnectar, Bonobo and the prodigiously talented Excision.
This being high up in the mountains and in Canada, the pharmaceutical selection on offer is absolutely extraordinary. Everything is out in the open and whilst not expected, it is more than accepted. Any chemical high you’re looking for is here in abundance and for impressively low prices. This isn’t just a drug-addled mash up though. People at Shambhala for the most part will understand the narcotics they’re taking and be in control of their high. The first aid tent is top notch and there’s even a pill-testing tent for you to determine exactly what’s in those strange looking green things you just traded in exchange for a cigarette.
Yet when reflecting on why Shambhala is so magical, why it truly is the best five days of your entire year if not your life, it always comes back to the people. Everyone is so excited to be there. Here is a chance to behave with joyful abandon, dance from dusk through dawn and longer. An opportunity to wear whatever you want, be it beautiful, ridiculous, or indeed nothing at all. It is a common occurrence to hear incredulous cries of, “I can’t believe it’s really Shambhala” or “It’s really happening right now!” For those who’ve been before there is such joy that it’s here again, whilst Shambhala virgins are almost overwhelmed at being somewhere quite so fantastic. It is more common still, to hear people shouting, “Happy Shambhala,” as if at Christmas or Easter. The religious connotations of this are no coincidence. We are ravers. This is a rave religion and Shambhala is our annual pilgrimage. Non-believers must rethink their heathen ways and make their way however they can to Shambhala, for here truly is The Best Place on Earth.

No comments: